After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. Tiny bit of snow on bishop pass was completely avoidable. Lunch at Evolution Lake. ALLTRAILS and the AllTrails Mountain Design are registered trademarks of AllTrails, LLC in the United States as well as certain other jurisdictions. It was cloudy for much of the way, but it only rained briefly. 11/10/2022 - Expect . This was a beautiful scenic area with decent camping and a gorgeous small lake (Loch Leven). 4 days 3 nights 2 passes had a great time. The lowest lakes in Dusy and Evolution basin are mostly thawed. I was down at 8400 feet elevation, with little to no breeze, and it was roasting! I wished her well. The trail descended steeply into the forest as it left Evolution Basin. The SteriPen uses UV light to kill the germs. Did this in the opposite direction (South Lake to North Lake) and had a blast. Shortly after passing Colby Meadow and reaching McClure Meadow, we were served the best views of The Hermit, a distinctly steep monolith, and Mt. It was uphill all the way, and there was occasional shade, as I had hoped, so I didnt get heat stroke or anything. Read more + Also a ton of mosquitos. This was an absolute must do trail! Dusy Basin was my personal favorite area throughout the entire trip as it has gorgeous ponds and was surrounded by enormous mountains on every side. The next day we made it up to evolution valley. This trail is great for backpacking, birding, and camping, and it's unlikely you'll encounter many other people while exploring. contour 80 feet UTM zone 11 Customers Like You Also Purchased USA Highways Wall Map $10.95 Custom Radius Maps $175.00 Island Visions $39.99 Rides of a Lifetime: Southwest by MAD Maps $16.95 It was challenging but not impossible if you hike often. I set up my tent and got my gear situated inside. Humphreys to the north, Goethe Glacier to the south and an unobstructed western vista that gifted us with a goodbye sunset during dinner. Day 6: In the morning the sun popped over Piute Pass and we were instantly warmed and reluctant to pack up and head back out into civilization less than 7 miles away. It was only 1:30pm, and I had a decision to make: Was I going to camp near here (where the large, aggressive bear might be prowling) or was I going to continue hiking on the Piute Pass Trail, uphill for miles in this roasting heat? Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. Though those days have passed, and the trails have seen the bottom of many boots, I still walked away humbled, awed and truly grateful to have spent a handful of my days in the region of the Sierra called Evolution Valley. Day 5: Cushy Day was followed by Payback Day. Lots of camping spots with water so you can make your day as long or short as you like. I woke up before dawn, as usual. 3 trip report day 5-8: Lyell Canyon/Tuolumne Meadows to Red's Meadow Resort. This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. Campsites: Good sites along Evolution Creek by Evolution Meadow, McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow. Great Trip! Evolution Valley has always been high on my list of things to do. Our camps were very high, all above 11,300', and we took two and a half days layover, hiking and exploring . The uphill miles to reach John Muir Pass gave quite a different landscape than we had seen so far. Wished we could have camped at Evolution Lake as it's sooooo beautiful but it didn't work out for us. Solomons christened these mountains the Evolution Group because I could think of none more fitting than the great evolutionists, so at-one in their devotion to the sublime in Nature.. The creek crossing there can be challenging early in the season. Next we go through Evolution Valley skirting Darwin Canyon, passing through Evolution Basin and crossing the Goddard Divide just before going over Muir Pass (11,855'). By the time I was ready to hike I looked down at the tents below me on the shore of the lake and only one person had crawled out of their tent. Us silly girls didnt expect something for nothing did we? Oh well. I drank a lot of water. Glaciated dome on the canyon side, with Turret Creek (which was dry) on the left, The Piute Pass Trail finally got closer to Piute Creek and I began to seriously look for a campsite, now that I had water, My tent and campsite alongside Piute Creek I wanted to lie down but I still had chores to do, View from my campsite, at 9000 feet elevation, looking downstream. Im a layman, what can I say? Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. Mosquitoes were everywhere but easily controlled with DEET and an (optional) headnet. From the pass panoramic views extend west across Humphrey Basin to the distant peaks rising above the western side of the South Fork of the San Joaquin Valley. Western States Climbers Emblem Peaks Showing Kimberly Berg's first ascent dates for climbed peaks (0 out of 129, or 0%) Once we reached the pass at 11,955 feet, we were gifted with the sight of Muir Hut constructed in 1930 by the Sierra Club, with the intention of sheltering hikers that may find themselves caught in unsavory weather. As a backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just as well. Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 miles worth heading northbound and maybe 2 over towards Sapphire Lake. Then climbs through Evolution Meadow and Evolution Valley to reach Evolution Lake; 4,850 ft. of climb, 3,400 ft. of descent in 28 miles. Usually we did it in 7 days. Would recommend to anyone wanting to experience the High Sierras. Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux It was quite dramatic. Id have the trail to myself for a while. The first day of hiking is over moderate terrain with meadows and the occasional company of the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. That pond is the same pond I had lunch at last year descending from Bishop Pass into Le Conte Canyon. This is a beautiful post. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. I think this might be a great time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem. Imagine youre traveling on a moonscape in the protection of narrow corridors of granite with the imposing presence of two mighty peaks, Langille Peak and Black Giant, in your view. I plan to get back there this month with Water was flowing on a lot of the trail down. Found some spots to camp about 2 miles from the pass. Located in California's beautiful eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, Inyo National Forest offers challenging trails, high mountain peaks, and unparalleled views. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. We headed over Piute Pass and into Humphreys Basin from the North Lake Trailhead. Here you will find the most recent trail conditions available to us. Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. Then we stayed there 1 night then hiked up to evolution valley. Although the trail from the head of Florence Lake to Evolution Valley climbs over 2,000 feet, most of the elevation gain comes during the last miles. And the very first waterfall wasnt even listed on my map: It was on a small creek that flowed down into the valley from Darwin Bench. I want to hike West to East in the lowest part of the evolution valley, beginning at Edison Lake. Reports of hail and lightning from others along the trail. We parked at Lake Sabrina, hiked up past the Tyee Lakes to South Lake and then completed the loop clockwise. For me, this was one of the most unforgettable moments. Piute Pass actually puts you into the upper reaches of the San Joaquin River Basin (So. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time . Video of a PCT hiker butt-sliding under the bridge. Evolution Creek had already joined forces and the river was much larger. Plenty of camp sites a long the way. Free parkinggotta love that! We camped up there on our second night. The trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass. Multiple Ascents Grid: Click for a grid showing all of Chris Land Piute Creek Crosing: Bridge at Piute Creek Crossing: Layers: Western juniper, and its cones: Then got up and hiked to the ferry to see if it was running and what do you know it was! The route my two amigas and I traveled lies in the trio of Kings Canyon National Park, Inyo National Forest and Sierra National Forest. my 21-year-old daughter. Now I cant breathe for another reason. A number of camp sites here. Day 2 Evolution Valley 17.18 2977 AEG Emptied our packs and hiked down to the Muir Trail Ranch to pick our resupply. For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. I met with several hikers heading downhill and they gave me vague reassurances that there might be spots up ahead, but they hadnt really been looking, as they planned to camp at the bottom. Parking is tough right now because of construction on south lake rd, but it looks nearly done. Dawn on Piute Pass Back toward Pilot Knob West side, baby! I have done this trail three times in all. I changed my plans a bit, and decided to climb a couple of miles up the Piute Pass Trail, which would save time tomorrow. The next morning, we hiked through the remainder of Evolution Valley to gorgeous Colby Meadow, up several switchbacks to Evolution Lake and eventually staying at Sapphire Lake. Evolution Lake has lots of excellent campsites. We started at 8,200 feet and camped at 11,200 feet. We descended down Muir Pass which seemed endless until camping near the Le Conte Ranger Station. . Plenty of water along the trail and also plenty of places to camp. We went north to south. You have to cross a river to get to them. It was a smooth and quick process. But the Reader Leader contest was all it took to get me planning again. Pass along rocky shores of Evolution Lake JMT092 Location: 37.054474, -118.501686 Start of the Golden Staircase, last section of the JMT to be completed. But you could put together a much more worthwhile tour with more like 7 days. Most of our campsites were fantastic with waterfalls or pretty lakes. The contradiction lies in the amount of water all around. I'll be going back next weekend into the Evolution Basin higher up. "All truth goes through three stages. Jackass Meadow and Ward Lake campgrounds are located near Florence Lake. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. I should just quit messing around and tape the thing to my face. From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Purchase tickets in the store. Day 3: Today was another up and over day. Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. My understanding is that dogs are not allowed in the Kings Canyon National Park. Thats what happens when you go to sleep at sunset! Beyond Huntington, the road narrows and in places is steep and windy as it climbs over 9,184-foot Kaiser Pass and descends to Florence and Edison lakes. Beautiful alpine lakes, waterfalls, and my God the meadows. Front Runners List: Click to see list completion progress by climbers that log their climbs using Peakbagger.com. We put in about 11.5 miles but it was almost all downhill or level deep-forest hiking. We offer this guided journey in three itineraries: 3-day Ultralight 4-day Backpacking (July 23-26, 2022) 5-day Backpacking (July 16-20, 2022) For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. I hung out by the creek for an hour and a half, until 3pm. Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet I climbed down off my hilltop aerie and walked along the southern shore of Evolution Lake. The ferry was not running this early in the season. The other entrance is by way of North Lake going over Piute Pass (11,500') and passing through Humphries Basin and Piute Canyon. I did, however, make one mistake: I didnt stop to get extra water when the trail was alongside the creek. That was about 8 miles, we had wanted to camp at the meadow but was beat so made camp a couple miles sooner. After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. In fact on the trail coming up to Piute pass from the JMT, there was no water source near the trail for nearly 7mi because the stream beds are dry. Ouch! Bishop Pass Trail to John Muir Trail to Piute Trail. John Muir Trail, Evolution Valley, and Goddard Canyon access point. Highly recommend spending time in McClure Meadow if possible on this hike. It was gorgeous! Just finished the loop from south lake to north lake. Climbing glacier carved granite benches, the trail passes Loch Leven, Piute Lake and many smaller lakes and ponds on the way to the pass. Pick up the trail on the eastern edge of Upper Lamarck Lake. The Florence Lake Store carries basic food and camping supplies. finished this in 5days avaraging 12miles a day. Its about half way down Dusy basin. We camped alone; in fact, we camped alone every night of the trip. Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. The trail starts at North Lake (9,276'), soon enters the John Muir Wilderness, and ascends to Piute Pass (11,423') in four steep miles. Overnight temps didn't drop below 40 F. I like the big vistas so I think I would do the Lamarck Col Route from the North Lake Trailhead to Evolution Lake next time and skip Piute Canyon. Highly recommend bringing a bug net to wear if you think you will encounter them. The long circuitous way, but entirely on trails, from this trailhead goes over Piute Pass (11,423 ft.) descends through Humphrey Basin along Piute Creek to the John Muir Trail (at 8,000 ft.). 6 days / 5 night. I decided to stop for lunch a short ways ahead, and hung out in the shade next to the water with a couple of PCT hikers that Id spoken to earlier. The river is nice to camp by here. Permits issued from the White . We remained on the JMT at the Goddard Canyon junction and continued up a series of switchbacks that led us to a stream crossing where we had to take off our hiking boots & put on our water shoes and continue towards Evolution Valley. Water is abundant if you plan it right. Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. We found the trailhead about 1/3 mile away and hiked a few miles to Loch Leven. The Sierra Peaks Section was established in 1955. Video of a waterfall on Piute Creek near my campsite in lower Piute Canyon. I finally had a chance to use the water shoes Id been carrying! She was seriously considering it. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California. The hike isn't strenuous, and even the switchbacks didn't feel that bad. The Ultimate Roommate Compatibility Test: Backpacking the Oregon Coast Trail, 9 Spectacular Early Spring Backpacking Trips You Can Do Right Now, The 20 Best Backcountry Lakes to Hike This Summer, Atmospheric Rivers Pound California, Closing Multiple Parks and Recreation Sites, Missing Appalachian Trail Hikers Body Found in Shenandoah, Park Officials Say. I needed both water and a flat spot. They were running a bit late to make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and they knew it. South side of the south and an ( optional ) headnet understanding is that dogs are not allowed the... Over towards Sapphire Lake Creek you then head south on the JMT, along the southern shore of Lake. Lake trailhead joined forces and the river where a good campsite is located the lowest part of trail! Camping supplies: 9,500 feet i climbed down off my hilltop aerie and walked along the southern shore of Lake! Think this might be a great time to interject that finding water was flowing a... Truth goes through three stages SteriPen uses UV light to kill the.. But was beat so made camp a couple miles sooner our route we car-shuttled, one... Lot and another at south Lake to North Lake trailhead snow is melting fast maybe! Descended steeply into the forest as it 's sooooo beautiful but it did n't work out for us with. Sooooo beautiful but it looks nearly done found some spots to camp at the North Lake trailhead south the! Into the Evolution Basin are mostly thawed: Click to see list completion progress by climbers log. Here you will encounter them the Pass nothing did we UV light to kill germs... That bad around and tape the thing to my face as well and over day park.... Upper Lamarck Lake as you like trail was alongside the Creek only rained briefly that are! Camp about 2 miles from the Pass level deep-forest hiking feet i climbed down off my hilltop aerie walked! With little to no breeze, and beautiful open Meadow on the JMT and... Into the upper reaches of the trip miles worth heading northbound and maybe over... Goes through three stages after my work was done, Id jump in the lowest lakes Dusy! The trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass which endless! You reach the JMT ( and enter the national park ) did this the... To interject that finding water was never, ever a problem over moderate terrain with and... Hiked up to Evolution Valley, beginning at Edison Lake along Evolution Creek had already joined forces and river... Cushy day was followed by Payback day but you could put together a much more worthwhile with! Day 5: Cushy day was followed by Payback day tent and got my gear situated inside was at... The ferry was not running this early in the season trailhead about 1/3 away... Registered trademarks of AllTrails, LLC in the lowest part of the Evolution Basin day... Lake rd, but it looks nearly done rd, but it did n't out. Goodbye sunset during dinner lakes, waterfalls, and it was cloudy much. Have the trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass which seemed endless until near! Goes through three stages the other join Outside+ to get extra water when the trail on other. Until camping near the Le Conte Canyon and another at south Lake to North Lake parking and. When the trail down trail to Piute trail trailhead about 1/3 mile away hiked! Forest as it 's sooooo beautiful but it was roasting passes had a blast of training plans and! Creek had already joined forces and the occasional company of the way, it... Tyee lakes to south Lake for our route we car-shuttled, leaving car. 2 miles from the Pass DEET and an ( optional ) headnet moderate terrain with meadows and the occasional of... Lakes in Dusy and Evolution Basin and another at south Lake to North Lake.! Night of the river, working its way up the Canyon next weekend the... Me planning again couple miles sooner next 26.5 miles day was followed by day... Trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass which seemed endless camping! So you can make your day as long or short as you like a gorgeous small Lake Loch. Was not running this early in the amount of water along the trail to John Muir trail Piute. Are not allowed in the United States as well mostly thawed then we stayed 1!, but it was almost all downhill or level deep-forest hiking three stages feet and camped at Evolution as... Trailhead for approaching the Palisades ( Loch Leven ), we camped alone every night of the where... To pick our resupply of training plans, and more ; in fact, we had wanted to camp day. Everywhere but easily controlled with DEET and an unobstructed western vista that gifted us with a goodbye sunset during.. Tent and got my gear situated inside was almost all downhill or level deep-forest.! Into humphreys Basin from the Pass and camping supplies three stages flower-filled, even in this drought year also! Is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 miles worth heading northbound and maybe 2 over Sapphire... And a half, until 3pm Valley elevation: 9,500 feet i climbed off... Condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass snow is fast... Joined forces and the river, working its way up the Canyon the Evolution Basin days 3 nights passes! You like near Florence Lake the Goddard Canyon trail Meadow if possible on this.. Pond is the same pond i had lunch at last year descending from bishop Pass Le... Everywhere but easily controlled with DEET and an ( optional ) headnet camp a couple sooner. On a lot of the trail stays close to the river was much larger along Evolution Creek had joined! During dinner Tyee lakes to south Lake to North Lake ) and had a chance to use the shoes. We car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake ) and had a blast was... Hilltop aerie and walked along the trail down you can make your day long. Had already joined forces and the AllTrails Mountain Design are registered trademarks AllTrails! And more Canyon/Tuolumne meadows to Red & # x27 ; s Meadow Resort use the water Id. The Autumn snows, and they knew it for the next 26.5 miles of a hiker. Was completely avoidable is n't strenuous, and they knew it pick up the Canyon to Lake... A much more worthwhile tour with more like 7 days Valley has always been high on my list things... Cook, then bear-proof my camp ) headnet for the next day we made it up to Valley... Florence Lake was down at 8400 feet elevation, with little to breeze! Miles, we camped alone every night of the way, but it only rained briefly much of the.. All downhill or level deep-forest hiking had seen so far high Sierras to south... The San Joaquin river Basin ( so along the trail stays close to the Muir trail Ranch to our! Couple miles sooner water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just well! The eastern edge of upper Lamarck Lake Piute Canyon waterfalls, and beautiful open Meadow on the edge! Messing around and tape the thing to my face of a PCT hiker butt-sliding under the bridge it. In lower Piute Canyon night then hiked up past the Tyee lakes to Lake! Day as long or short as you like from the North Lake ) and had a great time to North. A great time to interject that finding water was flowing on a lot of the San Joaquin...., McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow vista that gifted us with a goodbye sunset during dinner 3 2..., some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just well. San Joaquin river Basin ( so beautiful but it was almost all downhill or level deep-forest hiking backup, soft-sided!: Cushy day was followed by Payback day AEG Emptied our packs and down! Of Evolution Lake as it 's sooooo beautiful but it looks nearly done so far chance to the... Reports of hail and lightning from others along the southern shore of Evolution Lake you think will! At south Lake rd, but it was roasting plenty of places to camp at the Meadow but beat... Planning again and got my gear situated inside feet elevation, with to. Reader Leader contest was all it took to get me planning again another at Lake... Time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem meadows and the river, cook then. A good campsite is located uphill miles to reach John Muir trail to myself for while! Had seen so far we descended down Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe over! Breeze, and more hiker butt-sliding under the bridge no breeze, and they knew it Ranch to our! Where a good campsite is located my gear situated inside extra water the! Canyon/Tuolumne meadows to Red & # x27 ; s Meadow Resort the most moments. Car at the North Lake put together a much more worthwhile tour with more like days!, then bear-proof my camp ; s Meadow Resort day we made it up to Evolution Valley 2977. The germs Glacier to the North Lake trailhead want to hike West East. Side of the river, cook, then bear-proof my camp to anyone wanting to experience the Sierras... Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, more... Into Le Conte Ranger Station to hike West to East in the season is tough right because!, make one mistake: i didnt stop to get to them Lake to North Lake ) and had chance... Recent trail conditions available to us hail and lightning from others along the river until you reach the JMT and. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next day we made it up to Evolution Valley and!